Paris (AP) — After a coronavirus-related hiatus, Paris Fashion Week is back. The world of high fashion has been largely digitized for a year after overcoming a pandemic, but big names like Chanel, Hermes and Louis Vuitton are finally back on the live runway this season. What are your essentials? Face mask and health pass, Bien Sur.
Dior confirmed that ready-to-wear comebacks on Tuesday (VIPs such as actress Rosamund Pike and tennis ace Roger Federer) will make a spectacular start on the first full day of the Spring / Summer 2022 collection. This was the first ready-made runway of a famous house since March 2020. This is a moving return for some.
Here are some highlights, including Saint Laurent:
Dior Revives “Slim Look”
Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri jumps into Dior’s archives and returns with a playful collection of colors and graphic shapes.
Throughout the venue in the annex in the Tuileries Gardens in Paris, there were colored blocks and retro signs that provided clues to the aesthetics of the 1960s collection.
The show was a homage to former designer Marc Boan, whose generation was defined by the 1961 “Slim Look” collection. (Liz Taylor is famous for ordering 12 gowns immediately from the iconic show.)
On Tuesday, Chiuri revamped Bohan’s slim style with her contemporary twist. Bold color blocking (riffing decorations) was offered in raspberry, red, navy, orange and green camera snap palettes.
The display evoked a dream world. The model robots around the decoration and plays off-quilter music. A stylish boxy 60’s jacket that combines a graphic statement pocket with a sporty vest and a dress channeled with a tennis skirt. The main disappointment of the otherwise tasty collection was a series of silk boxer pajamas. This made the house look too young.
Would you like to return to business as usual?Not quiet
Now that the coronavirus travel rules have been relaxed between Europe and the United States, New York fashion editors are back in the city of light. It was a moving event for many who missed meeting international friends in the industry.
“I’m happy to meet everyone. I’m happy that the system is back. Kenneth Richard, Editor-in-Chief of The Impression magazine, said:
However, Richard expressed skepticism in a way that Paris was completely open. Many of the Dior shows didn’t wear masks, even though the seats were very small. At Milan Fashion Week, social distance and mask wearing were more stringent.
“Look at this space, we’re side by side,” Richard said, pointing to the four sections of the back-to-back seats. “In Milan, everyone was three feet away.”
One-third of the 97 shows at Paris Fashion Week chose physical presence this season, including most heritage homes, but about two-thirds remain digital.
Former French first lady Carla Bruni looked up in awe when the Eiffel Tower shined on a strike at 8 pm.
Yves Saint Laurent’s renowned home is famous for abandoning the Paris Fashion Week calendar. But on Tuesday it changed his mind and returned to the first major day of the show. Thankfully, it may have been selected as the best collection of the season so far.
French designer Anthony Vaccalello has created a bold collection that combines provocative style with sensuality and charm, confidently uplifting, and breaking out of the usually restricted short skirt silhouette. ..
Notable details included a pale (signed) tuxedo dress with bright blue gloves. Or a thick gold bracelet that contrasts with a color-blocked vermilion suit skirt. The proportions were sometimes oversized, with a chic, heavy enough silk fabric at the hem of the dress. The exposed nipples of the pierced model mixed this classicism with a fierce street atmosphere.
The surreal aquatic headgear, masks and breathing equipment of the Botter Show caused underwater dystopia. Or did the Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh shows just swipe again in a pandemic?
In any case, the designers were in a fashion-sensitive form for spring and summer in their statement about ecology and sea conditions.
A swim cap, scuba dive, a box-shaped T-shirt with “CARIBBEAN” on it, a big blue umbrella for a hat, and other aquatic-themed models swirl through the water as if they were underwater. The humor of the tongue on the cheeks stayed far from the inspiration of the design, and of course the definitive color of the show was blue.
The house said that more than half of the display fabric was made from recycled marine plastic.
KENNETHIZE is a nova
Kenneth Ize kickstarted this week with a vibrant and colorful display in honor of Nigeria’s heritage.
The young designer, who was the finalist of the 2019 LVMH Awards and gained worldwide attention at the 2020 debut show because Naomi Campbell hit the runway, had a lot to prove. Still, he did it boldly.
Apart from the subdued colors of the previous collection, Ise used gold glitter and bright patterns for an optimistic view of spring. Sexy silk slip gowns and fun play mix in clashing stripes. Each sandal of the show’s 29 looks gave off a relaxed atmosphere.
Other clothing also evoked couture.
“We use the current Yoruba weaving techniques of southwestern Nigeria to produce textiles,” Ise told The Associated Press after the show. “We combine these weaving techniques with what we consider to be a modern version, creating a synchronism between historic craftsmanship and modern silhouettes.”
Celebrating both European and African continents (the designer was born to Nigerian parents in Vienna and raised in Austria), his couture-conscious craftsmanship is revealed in a gold dress and a transparent gold thread. was. Fairy tales and Greek myths.
Thomas Adamson can follow Twitter.com/ThomasAdamson-k
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Ready-to-wear in Paris makes a comeback in Saint Laurent, Dior | Entertainment
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